Canelés

Kayso, I baked these recent­ly after years of canele envy, and man­aged to pull it off the first time, thanks to the labor of oth­ers on the inter­net, ever gen­er­ous with their time and skills.

For the first time in my life, I felt like that kid who nev­er went to class, then asked you for all your notes, and aced the exam. I did have to tweak the recipes, basi­cal­ly cher­ry-pick­ing best prac­tices.   There are lots of notes below, if you want to check out the process, but here’s the recipe.

INGREDIENTS

1 tbl vanil­la bean paste

500 ml whole milk

200 grams white sug­ar

100 grams a/p flour

50 grams salt­ed but­ter, melt­ed and cooled but still liq­uid

2 eggs at room tem­per­a­ture

2 egg yolks at room tem­per­a­ture

60 ml rum (I used Myers)

for the mold

40 grams beeswax

60 grams unsalt­ed but­ter

12 canele molds (see notes below).

INSTRUCTIONS

Bring milk to boil.  Turn off heat and stir in vanil­la.  Set aside.

Whisk togeth­er the sug­ar, eggs and yolks.  The mix­ture will be thick and per­haps crumbly.  No, you did­n’t do any­thing wrong (yet).  Add the melt­ed but­ter slow­ly to the eggs and whisk until blend­ed.

Gen­tly tem­per the eggs by adding 6 table­spoons, a table­spoon of at a time, of the warm milk to the eggs while whisk­ing (you want to avoid adding hot milk to eggs too quick­ly because you don’t want the eggs cooked).  Once your mix­ture is warm, slow­ly whisk in the remain­ing milk.  Whisk in the rum.  Trans­fer the bat­ter to a mea­sur­ing cup with a pour spout, and place it in the refrig­er­a­tor for a min­i­mum of 24 hours and up to 5 days.

When you are ready to bake the canelés, melt the beeswax and but­ter in a small pan and swirl to com­bine. Pour the mix­ture to the brim of the first mold and imme­di­ate­ly pour the mix back into the pan (I used a pip­kin to melt the mix­ture because it has a pour spout).  Repeat until each mold is coat­ed with the but­ter-beeswax mix­ture.

Pre­heat the oven to 450 degrees.  Remove bat­ter from the fridge and gen­tly whisk or stir it to com­bine it (before adding the bat­ter to the molds, you will stir it again).  Don’t over­mix.  Fill the molds to near the top and place on a cook­ie sheet lined with foil (the wax and but­ter make a bit of a mess and when heat­ed, it will smoke a bit, so the foil makes it easy to clean.  Parch­ment has a ten­den­cy to burn).

Bake the canelés for 25 min­utes, then turn the heat down to 375 and bake for anoth­er 35–30 min­utes until the cane­les are very dark brown.

Remove from the oven.  After one minute, Invert each mold onto a plate.  The canele should eas­i­ly slip out of the mold.  Con­grats!

LOTS OF NOTES:

  1. I read a ton of blogs and a lot said that you should not over­beat the mix­ture or the cane­les will “muf­fin top.”  I also read a ton of blogs that said this is bull­shit.  I am team bull­shit.  Whisk until blend­ed, because it’s going to sit for at least 24 hours.
  2. There are some unortho­dox blog posts out there that try to get the trade­mark crunchy out­side with­out beeswax; they will tell you all you need is but­ter.  My under­stand­ing is the beeswax is not only used for per­fect col­or, but for tex­ture and fla­vor.  Don’t skip it.  Also?  Don’t try to “brush” your molds with the but­ter-wax mix­ture.  You will not be pleased.  Your wax will catch in the brush and the molds won’t be even­ly coat­ed.  The pour-in-pour-out method works per­fect­ly.  Toss out the remain­ing bit of wax (which isn’t much).
  3. These were made with sil­i­con molds because I’m not made of mon­ey.  Make sure you con­firm your molds are safe up to 450 degrees (or hot­ter).  Some sil­i­con is not safe.  I’d pre­fer to have the cop­per molds, but I’m wait­ing for a rich boyfriend.
  4. Let’s talk molds!  First, these were actu­al­ly part of a sin­gle 8‑piece tray.  I cut them with a scis­sors into indi­vid­ual molds.  In my hum­ble (brag) opin­ion, this is the only way to not either kill your­self try­ing to coat them, or kill your­self with third degree burns try­ing to get them out. Once cut, they are easy to fill, and easy to unmold.  DO IT!
  5. More on molds!  In look­ing at the lin­er notes for a few molds for sale, a lot of the Teflon (non-stick) pans note in the fine print that they are not designed for tem­per­a­tures over 400.  You should not be using Teflon any­way (unless you want babies with­out nos­trils), but seri­ous­ly, check to make sure it’s safe.
  6. Just do it.  Look, what’s the worst thing that can hap­pen?  A smoky house and some wast­ed flour and but­ter?
  7. Last note (prob­a­bly):  I think these taste bet­ter cold and at least a few hours old.  Bon chance, bitch­es!

STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING

 

It’s not pret­ty, but it makes up for its looks in fla­vor.

Fun­ny sto­ry:  I spent two years reverse engi­neer­ing this dessert (and feel­ing pret­ty freak­ing smug about it), only to dis­cov­er the chef will give you the recipe if you ask for it.  This is my ver­sion, but I’m told by the impor­tant peo­ple in my life that I nailed the orig­i­nal.

I have to say that (short of being a canelé) this is prob­a­bly the best dessert ever made.  I’m talk­ing bet­ter than choco­late cake, lemon curd tart, pret­zel short­bread, world peace cook­ies, Sri Lankan wed­ding cake … I have had it on my birth­day many years run­ning, and there is always a doubt­ing Thomas or Thomasi­na who looks dis­ap­prov­ing­ly at the “rus­tic” vision drip­ping with tof­fee, only to end up hav­ing thirds.  Make this.  You won’t regret it.

 

Tof­fee Sauce

Com­bine 1 cup whip­ping cream, 1 cup unsalt­ed but­ter, and 2 cups of brown sug­ar over medi­um heat.  Stir, bring­ing to boil the mix­ture and boil for 5 min­utes.  Remove from heat and stir in 2 tsp of vanil­la.

 

Pud­ding Ingre­di­ents

6 oz pit­ted dates, chopped fine­ly

1 tsp bak­ing soda

1 1/4 cup boil­ing water

1/4 cup soft but­ter (1/2 stick)

1/2 cup brown sug­ar

1 egg

1 1/2 cup flour

1 1/2 tsp bak­ing pow­der

2 tsp vanil­la

Mal­don salt

 

Instruc­tions

Pre­heat oven to 350.  Mix dates, bak­ing soda, and boil­ing water in a bowl.  Set aside.

Grease and flour 6 small ramekins.  Put a heap­ing spoon­ful of the tof­fee in the bot­tom of each.  Beat sug­ar, but­ter, and vanil­la until fluffy.  Add egg and beat until smooth, then add the dates and water mix­ture.  Mix the flour and bak­ing pow­der togeth­er, then add to date mix­ture and mix just until blend­ed.

Divide the bat­ter even­ly into the 6 ramekins and bake for 15–20 min­utes, until cake stops jig­gling in the cen­ter and gen­tly springs back (don’t over­bake).  Remove from oven and run a sharp knife around the edge of each ramekin.  Invert each pud­ding onto a plate and pour the remain­ing warm tof­fee over the pud­dings.  Sprin­kle with a few grains salt, serve warm with vanil­la ice cream or chan­til­ly cream.

 

Some notes

Tof­fee is not caramel.  Caramel is made by brown­ing white sug­ar and adding heavy cream and but­ter (French caramel cooks the sugar/butter togeth­er first, then adds cream).  Tof­fee is made by com­bin­ing brown sug­ar, but­ter, and heavy cream togeth­er in a pan and boil­ing it.

I don’t think this is a good make-ahead dessert.  You can pre­make the tof­fee (and reheat) and you can let the bat­ter sit until you’re ready, but don’t bake the tof­fee pud­ding until just before you’re ready to eat it.

I don’t do gluten-free flour so I have no idea if it will work as a gluten free dessert.