
PRETZEL SHORTBREAD
My friend, Jonathan Auerbach, introduced me to these cookies when I was on a visit to NYC some years ago. The originals hail from the Lost Bakery, and are worth a try. After some reverse engineering and some additional preferences for my taste, I came up with this recipe. It is delicate and the al dente is a little more tender than the Lost Bakery version, which has a more biscotti-style crunch.
Without putting too fine a point on it, these are amazing, and worth the risk of burning the bejesus out of your skin. This recipe uses food-grade lye, and I don’t find that a baking soda bath is a good substitute for lots of reasons (including that awful, bitter flavor and the necessity of a warm water bath, which makes the raw dough fall apart). Just buy the damned lye and use rubber gloves. You’ll be fine. Your other option is to make pretty much any other cookie in the world, because the rest do not use lye.
2 sticks soft unsalted butter
1/2 cup sugar
¼ cup confectioner’s sugar
½ tsp sea salt
3 egg yolks
1 cup flour
1 ¼ cup pretzel “flour” (pretzels ground to powder), made from hard pretzels
2 tbl sodium hydrochloride (lye)
4 cups ice water
Pretzel salt
INSTRUCTIONS:
Using paddle attachment, mix butter until smooth and creamy. Add sugars and blend until fully blended, then add salt and eggs. Add the two flours, and blend just until the flour disappears. Do not overmix. Shape into a log about 12 inches long, wrap in wax paper, and refrigerate at least 2 hours, or up to 3 days.
When ready to bake, preheat oven to 350 and put cookies in freezer. Line a baking sheet with parchment then grease parchment. Using rubber gloves, dissolve lye into water using a non-reactive container, such as a Pyrex bowl. Refrigerate so it will stay cold. Remove cookies from freezer and slice in ¼ inch to ½ inch pieces. Poke twice with a fork. Remove lye water from refrigerator and dip cookies in lye for about 15 seconds and transfer them to baking sheets. For this, I use a spatula that is perforated, but you could also use a runcible spoon or tongs. The cookies will be wet and may puddle a bit on the parchment. Sprinkle salt atop each cookie, then bake, 12 at a time, for 10–15 minutes (depending on thickness) until dark brown. Remove from oven, cool, and peel from parchment. ENJOY!
NOTES:
Shortbread is typically made without egg. You can try that here if you like, but, because a good portion of the “flour” is ground pretzels, they can fall apart a bit. Adding the egg keeps them from crumbling when they are in the lye bath. If you choose to go eggless, slice, then fully freeze the cookies.
I use unsalted butter here, because I find that unless you are very careful with your butter (and are using something expensive, like KerryGold), salted butter contains more milk and water. For texture purposes, I like to go high fat. If you already use a very high quality butter, you could omit the added salt to the dough.
I have also substituted egg yolks for egg whites in this recipe for a more tender cookie (if you know cookies, using egg yolks yield’s a classic sable). The image pictured was made with egg yolks instead of whites.
